Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (500ml)

Product Information

Not to diss Hydrate 80 as that also have a place in the world, but for a project like descriped, i would use phosphor acid 100% If you are having problems with it sticking, i have used (i don´t know the exact english word) but its something along; wallpaper pastes? I'm now unable to sleep because there's literally NO position I can lay in that doesn't start to hurt after 10 minutes !

There's still a few bits to do, but it at least LOOKS significantly better than it did, and it isn't sweating paraffin out of multiple rust bubbles anymore.

It's just a punched piece of sheet steel, and the important features are an angled ladder of little oblong holes to work as a rack, 4 slots to hold the wick clips, a joggled lip for the seam to be spot welded, a tiny strengthening bead rolled onto the bottom end, and a 3ish mm bell mouth rolled into the other. Importantly for long-term protection Hydrate-80 doesn’t contain chlorine which is known to transform into corrosive hydrochloric acid in rust converter applications causing under-film blistering and destruction of paint finishes or other coating products.

That reply didn't really tell me anything particularly useful, and for all I know it could just be them trying to make more sales (Gas-Mac isn't a coating, it's a rust inhibiting additive, so it would be an ongoing additional cost/step in using this heater. The long-term performance of Bilt Hamber Hydratehydrate 80 has been proven to significantly increase coating life in independent tests conducted by the German TÜV organisation under conditions of VDA 621-415 (6 cycles, or 1008 hrs) which included exposure to hot salt-spray, 100% relative humidity and drying atmospheres with each cycle lasting 168 hours.This one litre bottle can be used to prevent blistering of any anti-corrosion wax, paint, or other coating you apply. It calmed down a bit over the last few days, so I decided today that I would risk actually DOING something in a "Pointy object" rich environment.

As for photos, the things in kit form at the minute, with some bit's in the garage, some swimming in a bucket of Deox C sat in the bath (Don't ask), and one bit's still waiting to take it's turn in the bucket, so it's not really "Photo shoot ready". The first coat should be worked into pitted areas and then smoothed by brush strokes in one direction.As an example Ral3020 in Raptor, 2K Direct Gloss, Basecoat, and GIO side by side will all be DIFFERENT, even though they are made with EXACTLY the same tint.